Lambretta LD restoration: Cabling the beast

Before I can fit the legshilds I have to route all the control cables that need to be straped in order to the lower down tube. Below is a list of the cables and their lengths ( I will do soon)

Upper gear control 68"
Lower gear control 69"
Clutch
Throttle
Rear brake
Speedometer

First I put on the speedo cable. The threaded collar from the cable's rear end needs to come off first remove the spring C clip just outside of it. Feed through the legshild an into the toolbox ready to connect to the speedomiter. At the backend, feed the inner into the driveand put the screw collar back on to the cable push the C clip on behind to lock in place and screw it onto the drive.

First I placed the throttle then the upper gear then lower gear then the clutch along the down tube of the frame.

I placed several zip ties to hold lightly so you can move around to get best fit. .

Throttle Feral

Working on the rear brake cable next from front to back. after putting the ferral in the frame bracket pass the cable through the fram cable guide and through the clip which is bolted to the kikstart housing and back to the rear adjuster.

Feral

Next, the lower gear cable.

It goes over my home made brake switch bracket, over the frame crossmember, and behinde the kickstart cable retainer and up to the lower part of the selector box.

Gear cables in place

Now wrap the 2 gear cables around the back of the handlebars and over to the shifter. Gear lower cable goes in the lower hole, gear upper goes in the upper hole. The throttle goes back and to the right, and goes into the receptacle hole in the throttle control. The clutch cable stays in front of the handlebars, bends over to the left and goes into the hole for it in the clutch lever perch.

cable route

Now for the front brake cable, which hasn't even been on the bike 'til now. You'll have to inch it along down thru the hole in the fender, thru the right fork leg welded-on guide, down to and thru the cast-in guide on top of the link enclosure area at the bottom of the fork, and finally into the front brake ferrule which installs in the hub back plate.

Rear brake light

The fender and upper fork guide holes are keywayed, which means that they will bite into the cable sheath and tear it up if they're forced or pulled, so just slowly and gently lift and help the cable along thru these and you won't regret the effort; you will if you don't take this care

upper gear cable feral

This picture refers to the clearance between the speedo cable and the brake light switch. The location of this portion of the speedo cable is controlled by the placements of the zip tie foreward of this point, and the cable guide on the crossmember to the rear. Since the zip tie is gonna stay where it is, you adjust the speedo cable clearance of the switch by where you tighten down the crossmember cable guide, slide it inboard until it runs safely under the switch and doesn't interfere with the switch spring operation Though it's a pain, wait until the legshield is on to finally position the switch bracket for height and on/off adjustment before you tighten it down. illustrates this nicely.

Rear brake cable clip

Now install, hook-up and adjust all of the inners to all the controls. When they all seem to work well then tighten the zip ties (with the exception of the top one) and cut off their excess length. Check operation again to see that you didn't overtighten any ties and bind any cables up.

Clutch cable not connected yet

Now you can put on the legshield. Put a cloth over the top edge where it goes under the locking ring so you don't scratch the paint. Put in the rear edge first, then as you begin to tuck the top front down, pull the four cables momentarily around the back of the fork tube to get them under and behind the legshield's fixing bracket before you try to spread it around the fork tube.